365bet娱乐

Costume and make up are the two important concerns of a Drama which transforms the actors according to their respective roles. In the 狈腻峁瓂补艣腻蝉迟谤补, Bharata advises to pay attention in costume and make-up for a healthy and successful dramatic production.^[1] Different kinds of dramatic characters are initially indicated by their attire and make up which represent them in front of the viewers without any effort.^[2] Abhinavagupta also admits it.^[3] In the 27^th chapter of the third part of the 痴颈峁ａ箛耻诲丑补谤尘辞迟迟补谤补辫耻谤腻峁嘺, a detailed discussion is found about various costumes, ornaments and make over of different dramatic characters which are included in 腻丑腻谤测腻产丑颈苍补测补.

According to the 痴颈峁ａ箛耻诲丑补谤尘辞迟迟补谤补辫耻谤腻峁嘺, There are four kinds of costume and make up viz.,

1. prasta,
2. 补濒补峁僰腻谤补,
3. 补峁単补谤补肠补苍腻 and
4. 蝉补箩箩墨惫补.^[4]

The 痴颈峁ａ箛耻诲丑补谤尘辞迟迟补谤补辫耻谤腻峁嘺 says that Prasta denotes the making of artificial masks of gods, demons, demi gods, different animals and birds etc. by clay, wood, cloth, leather and iron.^[5]

In the 狈腻峁瓂补艣腻蝉迟谤补, the word pusta is used instead of prasta.^[6] pusta is again divided into three types in the 狈腻峁瓂补艣腻蝉迟谤补 viz.,

1. sandhima i.e., joined object that means which are focused through joining,
2. 惫测腻箩颈尘补 i.e., indicating object that means which are focused through 惫测腻箩补 that is in guise and
3. 肠别峁ａ弓颈尘补 that means which are focused through 肠别峁ａ弓腻 i.e., moving object.^[7]

The tradition of using different masks of gods, demons, birds etc. in Drama is still followed in 搁腻蝉补 festival of Assam. 础濒补峁僰腻谤补 deals with the decoration of garlands and ornaments.^[8] In the 狈腻峁瓂补艣腻蝉迟谤补 four kinds of ornaments^[9] and five kinds of garlands^[10] are accepted. In the Sanskrit dramas ornaments like ear-rings, bracelets, headgears etc. are seen to be collected from nature. This is informed in many of the Sanskrit dramas. In the 础产丑颈箩帽腻苍补艣补办耻苍迟补濒补, as for example, 艢补办耻苍迟补濒腻 is seen to wear flowers, leaves etc. as her ornaments.^[11] She is also seen to remain dependant upon nature for her garments. She was wearing the skin of tree as her daily garment.^[12] Her clothes were supplied by trees.^[13] The colours of dresses of different characters are also discussed in the third part of the 痴颈峁ａ箛耻诲丑补谤尘辞迟迟补谤补辫耻谤腻峁嘺

This 痴颈峁ａ箛耻诲丑补谤尘辞迟迟补谤补辫耻谤腻峁嘺 notifies that the colour of every costume of every character should be different. As for example, the costume of 诲丑墨谤辞诲腻迟迟补 type of hero is suggested as not to be very loud where as it suggests that the costume of king should be graceful.^[14] In the 狈腻峁瓂补艣腻蝉迟谤补 also the dress of a king is suggested to be variegated in colour^[15] which definitely brings graceful look. On the other hand, the attire of the 辫谤补迟颈苍腻测补办补 i.e., the villain, should be very gaudy and the costumes of rest of the characters should be according to the country and their professions.^[16] This part of Drama shows a wide range of options on the basis of various concerned sources.

The 痴颈峁ａ箛耻诲丑补谤尘辞迟迟补谤补辫耻谤腻峁嘺 has also suggested different types of make up for different characters. 础峁単补-谤补肠补苍腻 meaning painting of limbs of different characters, also falls under the category of makeover. The 痴颈峁ａ箛耻诲丑补谤尘辞迟迟补谤补辫耻谤腻峁嘺 speaks that it should be done according to the caste, position, superiority and country of respective characters.^[17] As for example, this book suggests that gods should be white in colour;^[18] 痴腻蝉耻办颈 should be black in colour;^[19] demons, Kuvera and 笔颈峁Ｄ乧补蝉 should have the colour of water;^[20] Brahmins should be white in colour like moon;^[21] kings and rich people should have the complexion of lotus^[22] etc. The 狈腻峁瓂补艣腻蝉迟谤补 also agrees on it.^[23] This is important to note that this type of notes and rules give a social implication of the performance. Applying of moustaches and beard can be called an important make-up in facial decoration. The 狈腻峁瓂补艣腻蝉迟谤补 says that after painting the face and other limbs the characters are provided with beard according to their territory, profession and spiritual rites.^[24] According to 痴颈峁ａ箛耻诲丑补谤尘辞迟迟补谤补辫耻谤腻峁嘺, the kings, ascetics, ministers, priests, judges, lovers etc. should be mustached and bearded and the colour of their beard should be white except those of the kings and lovers.^[25] All these are the important points in a theatrical performance to project the concerned character in a clear and conspicuous way. The use of crown is also a very important part of ornamentation. In the 痴颈峁ａ箛耻诲丑补谤尘辞迟迟补谤补辫耻谤腻峁嘺, three types of crown are accepted for gods, kings, princes and commander-in chiefs.^[26]

In the 狈腻峁瓂补艣腻蝉迟谤补 also three types of crown are referred to. These are,

1. 辫腻谤艣惫腻驳补迟补,
2. 尘补蝉迟补办墨 and
3. 办颈谤墨峁璱.^[27]

According to the 痴颈峁ａ箛耻诲丑补谤尘辞迟迟补谤补辫耻谤腻峁嘺 the characters from lower cast like daityas, 诲腻苍补惫补蝉, 谤腻办峁�a蝉补蝉, pannagas etc. are categorised as having the right to put turbans on their heads.^[28]

The last variety of costume and make-up is 蝉补箩箩墨惫补 which denotes the entrance of animals on the stage in disguise.^[29] The 狈腻峁瓂补艣腻蝉迟谤补 also talks about it in the same way.^[30] In Sanskrit drama to show the act of different animals, this type of costume and make up relates the wearing of masks of various animals by the characters on the stage.^[31]

Footnotes and references:

[back to top]

[1]:

腻丑腻谤测腻产丑颈苍补测辞鈥�..办腻谤测补岣� prayatnastu n膩tyasya 艣ubhamicchat膩// 狈腻峁瓂补艣腻蝉迟谤补, 21.3

[2]:

n膩n膩vasth膩 prak峁泃aya岣� 辫奴谤惫补峁� nepathyas奴cit膩岣�/ a峁単膩dibhirabhivyaktimupagacchantyayatnata岣�// Ibid., 32.3

[3]:

[...] 础产丑颈苍补惫补产丑腻谤补迟墨, p.753

[4]:

肠补迟耻谤惫颈诲丑补峁� tu 惫颈箩帽别测补峁� prastola峁僰膩ra eva ca/ tath膩补峁単补谤补肠补苍腻 caiva j帽ey膩 蝉补箩箩墨惫补meva ca// 痴颈峁ａ箛耻诲丑补谤尘辞迟迟补谤补辫耻谤腻峁嘺, 3.27.2-3.

[5]:

尘峁沝腻 惫腻 诲腻谤耻峁嚹� 惫腻pi vastre峁嚹乸yatha carma峁嚹�/ lohairanuk峁泃ir惫腻pi pusta ityabhidh墨yate// 痴颈峁ａ箛耻诲丑补谤尘辞迟迟补谤补辫耻谤腻峁嘺.,3.27.3-4

[6]:

肠补迟耻谤惫颈诲丑补峁� tu 苍别辫补迟丑测补峁� pusto鈥檒a峁僰膩ra eva ca/ tath膩峁単aracan膩 caiva 箩帽别测补峁� 蝉补箩箩墨惫补meva ca// 狈腻峁瓂补艣腻蝉迟谤补, 21.5

[7]:

pustastu trividho j帽eyo n膩n膩r奴papram膩峁嘺ta岣�/ sandhimo 惫测腻箩颈尘补艣caiva 肠别峁ａ弓颈尘补艣ca 辫谤补办墨谤迟颈迟补// Ibid., 21.6

[8]:

补濒补峁僰腻谤补stu vij帽eyo m膩ly膩bhara峁嘺惫腻sas膩峁�/ 痴颈峁ａ箛耻诲丑补谤尘辞迟迟补谤补辫耻谤腻峁嘺, 27.5

[9]:

肠补迟耻谤惫颈诲丑补峁� tu 惫颈箩帽别测补峁� dehasy膩bhara峁嘺峁� budhai岣�/ 腻惫别诲丑测补峁� bandhan墨y膩峁� ca prak峁�epy膩ropyake 迟补迟丑腻// 狈腻峁瓂补艣腻蝉迟谤补, 21.12

[10]:

惫别峁ａ弓颈迟补峁� 惫颈迟补迟补峁� caiva 蝉补峁僩丑腻迟测补峁� 驳谤补苍迟丑颈尘补峁� 迟补迟丑腻/ 辫谤补濒补尘产颈迟补峁� tath膩 caiva 尘腻濒测补峁� 辫补帽肠补惫颈诲丑补峁� 蝉尘峁泃补峁�// Ibid., 21.10

[11]:

惫补苍补诲别惫补迟腻办补谤补迟补濒补颈谤腻辫补谤惫补产丑腻驳辞迟迟丑颈迟补颈谤诲补迟迟腻苍测腻产丑补谤补峁嚹乶颈/ 础产丑颈箩帽腻苍补艣补办耻苍迟补濒补峁�, 4.5

[12]:

鈥�..惫补濒办补濒别苍腻辫颈 迟补苍惫墨/ Ibid., 1.18

[13]:

办峁�a耻尘补峁� kenacidindup膩峁囜笉u taru峁嚹佲��./ Ibid., 4.5

[14]:

诲丑墨谤辞诲诲丑补迟腻苍腻峁� 惫别艣补岣� sy膩nna catyarthasamulva峁嘺岣�/ sy膩dr膩j帽膩峁� lalita 颈峁�y补迟别鈥︹赌︹赌�./ 痴颈峁ａ箛耻诲丑补谤尘辞迟迟补谤补辫耻谤腻峁嘺. 3.20.16-17

[15]:

citro ve峁�astu kartavyo n峁沺膩峁嚹佱箖/ 狈腻峁瓂补艣腻蝉迟谤补. 3.32.131.

[16]:

辫谤补迟颈苍腻测补办补ve艣astu kartavya艣ca tathoddhata岣�/ anye峁Ｄ佱箖 sad峁浥沷 ve艣o de艣akarm膩艣rayo bhavet// Ibid., 3.20. 17-18

[17]:

补濒补峁僰腻谤补stu vij帽eyo m膩ly膩bhara峁嘺惫腻sas膩/ 苍腻苍腻惫颈诲丑补岣� sam膩yoge hya峁単op膩峁単avinirgata岣�// 痴颈峁ａ箛耻诲丑补谤尘辞迟迟补谤补辫耻谤腻峁嘺, 3.27.5-6

[18]:

de惫腻n膩峁冣�︹��.办腻谤测腻 驳补耻谤补惫补谤峁嘺办腻岣�// Ibid., 3.27.17

[19]:

艣测腻尘补蝉迟耻 惫腻suki岣�鈥�/ Ibid., 3.27.18

[20]:

daity膩艣ca d膩na惫腻艣caiva r膩k峁�as膩 guhyak膩nug膩岣�/ 辫颈艣腻肠腻 jalasa峁卥膩艣膩 sammit膩ni tu var峁嘺ta岣�// Ibid., 3.27.18-19

[21]:

鈥︹赌�c补苍诲谤补惫补谤峁嚹� 诲惫颈箩腻岣�鈥︹赌�/ Ibid., 3.27.23

[22]:

谤腻箩腻苍补岣� padmavar峁嚹乥h膩 ye c膩pi sukhino 箩补苍腻岣�/ Ibid., 3.27.25

[23]:

var峁嚹乶膩峁� tu 惫颈诲丑颈峁� j帽膩t惫腻 惫补测补岣� prak峁泃imeva ca/ kury膩da峁単asya 谤补肠补苍腻峁� de艣aj膩ti惫补测补岣ヅ況it膩峁�// 狈腻峁瓂补艣腻蝉迟谤补,21.89

[24]:

别惫补峁� k峁泃惫腻 yath膩ny膩峁� mukh膩峁単op膩峁単avartana峁�/ 艣ma艣rukarma prayu帽c墨ta de艣akarmakriy膩nugama// Ibid., 21.108.

[25]:

诲颈惫测腻 ye puru峁Ｄ伵沜aiva tath膩 vidy膩dhar膩艣ca ye/ 艣峁涐箙g膩ri峁噊 narendr膩艣ca citra艣ma艣rudhar膩s迟补迟丑腻/ 艣耻诲诲丑补峁� tu li峁単in膩峁� 办腻谤测补峁� 迟补迟丑腻尘腻测补辫耻谤辞诲丑补蝉腻峁�// 痴颈峁ａ箛耻诲丑补谤尘辞迟迟补谤补辫耻谤腻峁嘺, 3.27.28-29

[26]:

Ibid.,3.27.33-34

[27]:

耻迟迟补尘腻 ye ca 诲颈惫测腻n膩峁� te峁Ｄ佱箖 办腻谤测腻 kir峁璱na岣�/ 尘补诲丑测补尘腻 maulina艣caiva kani峁ａ弓膩 p膩r艣vamaulina岣�// 狈腻峁瓂补艣腻蝉迟谤补, 21.142

[28]:

daityad膩navayak峁Ｄ佱箛膩峁� pannag膩n膩峁� sarak峁�as膩m/ ekapa峁�峁�膩stu 惫颈蝉迟墨谤峁嚹� 办补谤迟补惫测腻 尘耻办耻峁�膩岣� 艣耻产丑腻岣�// 痴颈峁ａ箛耻诲丑补谤尘辞迟迟补谤补辫耻谤腻峁嘺, 3.27.34-36

[29]:

prave艣astu tira艣c膩峁� vai 蝉补箩箩墨惫补 iti sa峁僯帽ita岣�/ Ibid.,3.27.44

[30]:

ya岣� pr膩峁噄n膩峁� prave艣o vai sa 蝉补帽箩墨惫补 iti sm峁泃a岣�/ 狈腻峁瓂补艣腻蝉迟谤补, 21.157

[31]:

te峁Ｄ佱箖 parastena 办补谤迟补惫测腻 辫谤补办峁泃颈岣� 辫耻谤耻峁Ｄ佱箖迟补谤腻/ 痴颈峁ａ箛耻诲丑补谤尘辞迟迟补谤补辫耻谤腻峁嘺, 3.27.45