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Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India

by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words

This page relates ‘Pharmaceutical use of Kesharaga (Hair dye)� of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.

Go directly to: Footnotes.

2.7. Pharmaceutical use of Keśarāga (Hair dye)

Black hair symbolises youth. It is a natural tendency among the people having grey hair to dye their hair. As mentioned in ṛhٲṃh[1], decoration on the body of a man having grey hair is in vein, for such decorations will never shine on his body. Preparation of hair dyes was known to people since ancient times. The earliest reference to hair dyes is perhaps in ʳܰṇa. Nāvanītaka[2], a treatise belonging to the 2nd C.AD, describes eleven formulae in twenty seven verses for hair dyes. ṛhٲṃh[3] also gives a recipe of hair dye.

Hair dyes were prepared in iron vessels. Sources of ingredients of a hair dye mainly consist of metals, herbs and minerals. Hair dyes were perfumed also. Hence aromatic substances also form part of ingredients of a hair dye. Some commonly used ingredients are Tilataila (Sesame oil), Gorocana (Bezoar), Kācamācī (Solanum Nigrum), ī (Indigo), ʾ貹ī (Long pepper), Ჹīٲī (Chebulic Myrobalan), Ā첹 (Emblic Myrobalan), īm [ī] (Green vitriol-Iron sulphate), Kūrmapitta, ٲԳī (Crotonplant -Jatropha Montana), ṛṅᲹ (Tralingeclipta), վīٲ첹 (Belericmyrobalan), ñᲹԲ (Sulphide of lead), հ󲹱 (Hrītakī, վīٲ첹 and Ā첹), Sarpis (Ghee), Kārṣyāyas (Black iron), Kṣīram (Milk), Rāmataruṇ� (Sprout of śǰ첹), ۲ṣṭ (Liquorice), īdzٱ貹 (Blue lily -Nymphala caerulea), Śābaraka (White Lodhra), Piṇḍārakaphala (Fruit of Vimkakata tree), ʾ貹īmūla (Pipper root), śī, Aṇḍākārī (Egg’s plant), Ś, Ѳ岹ⲹԳī (Henna), Śuktam (Vinegar), ñᲹԲvarṇa karda (Black mud similar to ñᲹԲ), Arkapatrāṇi (Leaves of Madder), Alambuka, Tuttham (Calamine, carbonate or sulphate of Zinc), Musta (Nut grass -Cyperus rotundus), Sahadeva (Sida Rhomboidea), Sahacarapatra (Leaf of Sahacara -Justicia Ecbolium), Sahacarakusuma (Flower of Sahacara), Jamboo (Black plum), Kakubhaphalam (Fruit of Arjuna), վīٲ첹taila (Oil of վīٲ첹), Kakubhakusuma (Flower of Kakubha), Cūtaphalamadhya (The seed of Mango fruit), Asanakusuma (Flower of Kino tree), Bisagranthi (Knot on the lotus stalk), Lohacūrṇa (Powder of iron), Mudga (Phaseolus mungo) and ṣa (Phaseolus roxburghii). For making hair dyes, ʳܰṇa[4] prescribe ingredients like burned conch, ī, īᲹū첹, Jaggery.

In 鲹ܱṃśa[5] of , we have reference to hair dyes made of ѲԲḥśi and .

ṛhٲṃh describes the mode of preparation of a hair dye, as per which the Kodrava grains are cooked in vinegar along with iron dust. The darkening process includes furthermore steps, in which the applied paste should be screened with green leaves for six hours. The same process is repeated with another paste of Myrobalan after washing away the former one. Mention of liquids used for cleansing and removing the bad odour of ingredients used in the hairdye is also made. These liquids include vinegar, clean water, scented oil, bovine urine etc.

Footnotes and references:

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[1]:

LXXVI.1

[2]:

Chapter X.vv.1-27

[3]:

Chapter LXXVII

[4]:

Encyclopedia of Purāṇic Belief (EPB), p.1018

[5]:

XVI.24

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