Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India
by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words
This page relates ‘Pharmaceutical use of Tambula (Betel)� of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.
Go directly to: Footnotes.
2.3. Pharmaceutical use of 峾ū (Betel)
By the term 峾ū (Betel), not merely a betel leaf is meant. But it is a parcel, which usually contains betel leaf, lime and areca nut. Sometimes 峾ū contains aromatic ingredients also. 峾ū imparts red colour to the mouth and thereby enhances the beauty of one’s face. Hence 峾ū is considered as a cosmetic. Cosmetic apart, 峾ū is an indivisible part of social, religious, and domestic life of Indians. It is considered one among the ṣṭDz (eight objects of enjoyment). Even though 峾ū was enjoyed by common folk, most of our references to 峾ūbhoga are in connection with royals and aristocrats. It is difficult to trace back exactly the history of the use of betel by Indians. However literary sources are sufficient enough to provide knowledge of the different aspects of 峾ū.
P.K Gode[1] refers to two treatises on 峾ū, namely 峾ūmañjarī and 峾ūkalpadruma. As per the information given by P.K Gode[2], these two works are collections of verses pertaining to the different aspects of 峾ū. The sources of these verses are numerous, which include ʳܰṇa, 貹Ծṣa, ṛt, medical texts and lexicons. These sources furnish us with the knowledge of the properties, purposes and ingredients of a 峾ū.
a) Properties of 峾ū (Betel)
峾ū has many medicinal as well as other properties. Betel chewing is generally good for the entire bodily systems especially for teeth, tongue and throat. It controls the over production of saliva and removes the bad odour of mouth. It is a pacifier of Kapha and ٲ and also a vermicide. Besides these medicinal properties, 峾ū is an ornament to the mouth and kindles passion.
Texts like ۴Dzٲ첹[3], ٳԱԳٲī-Ծṇṭ[4], Ჹ-Ծṇṭ[5], Jyotirnibandha[6], ūپܰ屹ī[7], ܲṣiٲٲԲṇḍ岵[8], ṛhٲṃh[9], ܳ[10] etc. mention thirteen qualities of 峾ū thus�
[...]
b) Purposes of 峾ū (Betel)
峾ū was made as offerings to deities and was presented to ṇa. No religious ceremony is complete, without making 峾ū as ٲṣiṇ�. In houses, people showed hospitality by giving 峾ū to their guest. 峾ūٰ[11] gives indications to this custom. Among the Āܰ type marriages, there was a custom of giving 峾ū as a token of agreement. According to ٳśٰ, it is compulsory for a householder to enjoy perfumes and 峾ū before going to bed with his wife. Since 峾ū kindles passion, it is one of the accessories of love sports. Presenting 峾ū symbolises love. We have some references to lovers putting chewed betel into the mouth of their beloveds with the aid of lips, tongue etc. In ṭṭīٲ[12], ṣaīⲹٲ[13], Śṛṅgārāmṛtalaharī[14], վṅk𱹲ٲ[15] etc. we come across such scenes. In 첹 첹ṇa of his work, ٲⲹԲ[16] gives some instructions regarding 峾ūbhoga for lovers preparing to get married. As a token of appreciation and honour also, 峾ū was presented. No restrictions were prevalent regarding the time of betel chewing. Usually people enjoyed it during night.
c) Ingredients of 峾ū (Betel)
A roll of 峾ū is known as Vīṭikā and this usually includes betel leaf, betel nut, ūṇa (Lime), Khadira (Acacia Catechu) and some aromatic ingredients like ū, پ, ṅg, ṭu첹 etc. Properties of these ingredients are described in our medical texts. Of these ingredients, Khadira was an important item. Earliest reference to Khadira is in ṻ岹 (ṻ岹)[17]. There we read of a sacrificial post made of Khadira tree. White Khadira otherwise known as Somavalka was a variety of Khadira. ṭiⲹ[18] has mentioned this variety. Techniques for collecting the juice of Khadira from Khadira tree are described in śܳٲ-ṃh[19]. Sometimes pill of Khadira was used in 峾ū. ԲDZ[20] refers to Khadira pill used in a king’s 峾ū. Besides the juice of Khadira, a Khadira pill contains sandal, clove, nutmeg, cardamom, musk, camphor etc. Recipes for such Khadira pills are described in some medical treatises. Such a pill proves curative in mouth diseases also. Khadira juice is a dye, which imparts red colour to the lips.
Lime prepared from oyster shells were used in 峾ū. Pearl oysters also were employed in making lime. In ԲDZ[21], we have reference to such lime filled in the roll of 峾ū for king. Other sources of lime were Arjuna tree, ṣṭ tree, crystal, stones and water. Properties of lime prepared from such sources are discussed in Ჹ-Ծṇṭ[22].
Even though reference to Tamākhu (Tobacco) is seen in the medical treatises, it is interesting to note that we have no reference to tobacco used in 峾ū. Hence it can be inferred that chewing tobacco along with betel is a later practice. Properties of tobacco are mentioned in ۴Dzٲ첹[23]. According to the text, tobacco is beneficial in diseases related to teeth. It is also considered as a germicide.
峾ū along with the earlier mentioned aromatic ingredients is usually called as Vāsatāmbūla.
۴Dzٲ첹[24] quotes a verse, which describes the different methods to be adopted in betel chewing at different times. Thus, one should chew betel with betel nut in excess at morning. In the afternoon the quantity of Khadira should be increased. During night lime should be taken in an extra dose.
ղ[25] mentions the different functions of ingredients which taken in different quantities in a 峾ū. Thus 峾ū taken with a limited amount of lime imparts red colour to the mouth. Betel nut in excess will cause colour decreasing. An extra dose of lime will produce a foul smell while an excess number of betel perfumes the mouth.
d) Articles Associated with 峾ū
Since betel box, lime pot, spittoon and nut crackers are some important accessories of 峾ū; it is interesting to record here some references about these articles.
Betel box is known by the names Upahastikā[26], Karaṇḍaka[27], Vaṅgerika[28] etc. Karaṇḍaka of aristocrats were usually of gold. In ٲśܳٲ[29], ٲṇḍ alludes to a golden Karaṇḍaka placed in the room of princess . In royal palaces there were special servants to bear betel box. Men and women were employed as betel box bearers. They were known as 峾ūkaraṅkavāhin, 峾ūdāyaka etc. Unlike other servants betel box bearers had the freedom to enter anywhere in the palace, for they had to follow their masters like a shadow. They were not only servants of kings or queens, but were intimate friends also. 峾ūkaraṅka was one among the friends of ṇa[30].
In Ჹⲹś, a ūṇapātra (Lime pot) is mentioned thus-
[...][31]
Patatgraha is the word used to denote a spittoon ʰپ is a variant of this word. ś[32] refers to both the words. Spittoons were made as gift and were sometimes made of gold or studded with precious gems. We have numerous references to spittoons. From 峾ūٰ[33] we learn that the bedroom of a 岵첹 was arranged with a spittoon along with other articles for night enjoyment. There it is stated that all the articles except spittoon should be arranged on a table, while the spittoon should be placed on the floor near the bed, so that one can spit into it the chewed betel frequently. In Ჹṣaٲ[34], we come across a group of porters moving to the king Ჹṣa carrying spittoon along with other articles. Spittoon also was made as gift by the bride’s father to his son in law at marriage. A verse in ṣaīⲹٲ[35] gives indications to this custom. There we read of ī presenting a spittoon set with rubies to Nala along with other gift articles. A golden spittoon is alluded to in ԳپܲԻ岹ī첹ٳ[36] of ٲṇḍ. In Śṛṅgāraśataka[37], ṛh compares the mouth of prostitutes to spittoons. There he uses the word Niṣṭhīvanaśarāva to denote spittoon. We have reference to spittoon in the medical treatises also.
In ūٰٳԲ of 䲹첹-ṃh, a spittoon is mentioned as follows:
[...].[38]
All the above recorded datas regarding spittoon point to the fact that people were very conscious about personal hygiene and environmental pollution at an early period itself.
This is evident from a passage of īṇa貹岹ñᲹī of ղ岹Ჹ, who records the bad habit of chewing betel in public place as follows -
[...].[39]
A nut cracker is generally called as Pūgasphoṭ�. ʲٲñᲹ[40] and Bhaṭṭojidīkṣita[41] refer to the term Śṅkܱghaṇḍa�. Some scholars are of opinion that the term Śṅkܱ is used there in the sense of a nutcracker. Similarly the seller of betel nuts is known as 峾ū첹. According to ٲⲹԲ[42], 峾ū첹 is one, who included among the list of people with whom one should create friendship. We read of a 峾ūdāyaka as a companion of ṇa[43].
Footnotes and references:
[1]:
SIICH, p.168
[2]:
Ibid, p.169
[3]:
p.35
[4]:
SIICH, p.146
[5]:
p.131
[6]:
SIICH, p.146
[7]:
Ibid, p.402
[8]:
p.150
[9]:
Gandhayukti
[10]:
SIICH, p.148
[11]:
p.314
[12]:
vv.549
[13]:
Chapter XX.82
[14]:
SIICH, p.153
[15]:
X.38
[16]:
p.266
[17]:
SIICH, p.163
[18]:
II.17
[20]:
Vol. 2, p.85
[21]:
p.84
[22]:
SIICH, p.159
[23]:
pp.17-18
[24]:
p.35
[25]:
Chapter 77.vv.35-37
[26]:
ٲśܳٲ, p.144
[27]:
Ჹṣaٲ, p.33
[28]:
p.94
[29]:
p.99
[30]:
Ჹṣaٲ, p.36
[31]:
SIICH, p.155
[32]:
p.390
[33]:
p.45
[34]:
[35]:
Canto XVI
[36]:
p.29
[37]:
SIICH, p.190
[38]:
Chapter XV
[39]:
SIICH, p.181
[42]:
Ist Adhikaraṇa, Chapter 51
[43]:
SIICH, p.173