Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India
by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words
This page relates ‘Various other Neck Ornaments� of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.
Go directly to: Footnotes.
2.4. Various other Neck Ornaments
In addition to the above mentioned, some other neck ornaments are�(1) ṣk, (2) Rukma, (3) Ѳṇisṛṅka, (4) Sraja, (5) Maṅgasūtra, (6) ṇṭ, (7) Kaṇṭhasūtraka, (8) Yoktraka, (9) Suvarṇasūtra, (10) ūٰ, (11) Tapanīyasūtra, (12) 屹ī, (13) Rucaka, (14) ʰbhogabhūṣṇa, (15) Graiveyaka, (16) Prakaṇṭhaka, (17) 鲹ٲ屹ī, (18) ʰ, (19) Lambana, (20) Uraḥsūtra, (21) 첹Ի岹, (22) 첹, (23) Kaustubha, (24) Ataka, (25) ѳܰ屹ī, (26) Ჹṣa첹, (27) Sūtraka, (28) Vyālapaṅktimañjarī, (29) Śṛṅgalikā, (30) Ѳṇijāla, (31) Kaṇṭhasūtra, (32) Lambasūtra, (33) Cāmīkarakaṇṭhasūtrikā, (34) Maṇīsanāthagalasūtra, (35) Vaikakṣika, (36) Hārasūtra, (37) ṅgⲹ, (38) Cannavīra, (39) Avakāṭaka, (40) Śīṣa첹, (41) Taralapratibandha, (42) Lambābharaṇa, (43) Upaśīrṣaka, (44) հī, (45) Pañcavalī, (46) Bandhura, (47) Apavartaka, (48) Śܻ, (49) ūٰ and (50) Sthagara. Of these, ṣk was worn round the neck. It was made of silver and gold. The epithet ṣkgrīva frequently occurs in ṻ岹[1] . There is a reference to հٲⲹ wearing silver ṣk in ʲñṃśa-ṇa[2].
ī쾱 also talks about ṣk. In the description of the ǻ, it is pointed out that every inhabitant there wore ṅg岹 and ṣk�
[...],[3]
Rukma was in the form of a plate or disc, hanging from the neck in a cord as a Pendant. The epithet Rukmavakṣas denotes one wearing a Rukma on the chest as an ornament. Ѳṇi was an armlet like ornament worn round the neck, with the aid of a woollen or cotton cord. ṻ岹 frequently refers to deities with the epithet Ѳṇigrīva[4]. In one context, the followers of ṛt are described as adorned with jewels[5]. Sraja was either a flower garland or a gold lace wrought into flowers, usually worn by men. Maṅgalasūtra, as its name indicates is an auspicious thread. Whether it was made of thread or metal is not specified. It is meant for ladies. ṇṭ and Kaṇṭhasūtraka are referred to in 첹Ի岹ܰṇa as female ornaments[6]. Sometimes it is set with rubies or emerald. Yoktraka is similar to Kaṇṭhasūtraka. It is also worn by ladies, which is mentioned by śṣa[7]. Suvarṇasūtra, ūٰ and Tapanīyasūtra are the names of a simple gold chain. Sometimes it consists of a precious stone at the centre. refers to such a chain.
屹ī is a necklace of one string of pearls. Sometimes it is adorned with a gem at the centre. ٲṇḍ refers to a highly priced and highly lustrous 屹ī. This necklace there described was able to brighten the royal court[8]. Rucaka is described by ʲٲñᲹ as a gold necklace[9]. But a ruby studded Rucaka is mentioned by ٲṇḍ[10]. ʰbhogabhūṣṇa is similar to Śeṣahāra of ṇa[11]. Graiveyaka is perhaps a tight necklace, which is mentioned in ī쾱-峾ⲹṇa, ṣṭī, ś and ʳܰṇa[12]. Prakaṇṭhaka is a one stringed pearl necklace with a big pearl in the centre, while other pearls are of gradually decreasing size. 鲹ٲ屹ī as the name suggests is made of jewels. ʰ is a long garland made of flower or metals. Lambana is a long garland with floral designs. Uraḥsūtra, 첹Ի岹, 첹 and Kaustubha are seen displayed in the images of deities. Of these Kaustubha is specially seen for վṣṇ[13]. ѳܰ屹ī is a pearl necklace. Bharata recommends it for male characters, royal as well as divines[14]. Ծܰṇa[15] also refers to it. In 鲹ܱṃśa, ѳܰ屹ī with 108 strands of pearls is described[16]. Ჹṣa첹 is in the shape of a snake. Bharata prescribes it for male actors. Sūtraka is a simple gold chain with one or more than one string, for men and women. It is also known by the names Dvisara, Trisara and Catussara on the basis of the number of strings. Trisara is mentioned in ṭyśٰ in connection with male characters. Śṛṅgalikā as the name suggests, consists of several links. Ѳṇijāla is a net of jewels. Kaṇṭhasūtra is perhaps a chain worn close to the neck, while Lambasūtra is a long chain. Cāmīkarakaṇṭhasūtrikā is a gold chain. Precious stones studded on a gold chain were called Maṇīsanāthagalasūtra. Vaikakṣika looks like a ۲ñDZ貹īٲ and is worn across the chest[17]. Hārasūtra is a loose and long garland. ṅgⲹ is meant especially for ladies. Cannavīra has a pair of chains; when it is worn, it looks like two ۲ñDZ貹īٲs crossing each other at the centre of the chest. In Avakāṭaka and Śīṣa첹, the sizes of pearls or beeds are equal. Taralapratibandha is a pearl necklace having a big pearl at the centre. Lambābharaṇa is mentioned in ʳܰṇa[18]. Sometimes it is similar to ʰ. Upaśīrṣaka has five bigger pearls in the centre in equal size. հī and Pañcavalī are pearl necklaces of three and five strings respectively. Bhandura is a pearl necklace with a jewel studded pendant designed like a lions face. Apavartaka is interspersed with gold beeds. Śܻ is similar to Śīṣa첹. ūٰ is a long gold necklace. It is also made of pearls having more than five strings.
Footnotes and references:
[1]:
II.33.10,VII.47.15
[2]:
43.86
[3]:
V.43.12,VI.44.22, 55.5
[4]:
I.122.14
[5]:
X.85.6,8
[6]:
V.3.106.15
[7]:
Saundarananda, V.3; Buddhacarita, v.55,VIII.22
[8]:
SCTD, p.267
[9]:
I.1.1,16
[11]:
SCTD, p.268; NTAIS, p.88
[12]:
ṣṭī, IV.2.95; ś, 2.6.106; ī쾱-峾ⲹṇa, III.67.27
[14]:
ṭyśٰ, 116-120,140-143
[15]:
111-112
[16]:
鲹ܱṃśa, 16.43
[17]:
ś, 2.6.130