Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India
by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words
This page relates 鈥楨ar Ornaments (a): Kundala鈥� of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.
Go directly to: Footnotes.
2.2. Ear Ornaments (a): 碍耻峁囜笉补濒补
碍耻峁囜笉补濒补 is a ring type ear ornament worn on the lower part of the ear and hanging up to the cheek. It is worn by men and ladies and is seen in the images of the gods. Gold, precious stones like emerald, ruby, diamond, lapislazuli and crystal are seen employed in its making. It was designed after crocodile, serpent, harp, peacock tail, wheel, conch shell and leaf.
In 痴腻濒尘墨办颈-谤腻尘腻测补峁嘺 there is a reference to the ladies of 搁腻惫补峁嘺鈥檚 palace, wearing 碍耻峁囜笉补濒补, studded with Vajra and Vai岣峢奴rya. It is also described that their 碍耻峁囜笉补濒补 was furnished with small bells producing jingling sound[1].
Among 笔耻谤腻峁嘺蝉, 础驳苍颈辫耻谤腻峁嘺, 惭补迟蝉测补辫耻谤腻峁嘺, 痴腻测耻辫耻谤腻峁嘺, 惭腻谤办补峁囜笉别测补辫耻谤腻峁嘺 and 厂办补苍诲补辫耻谤腻峁嘺 allude to the use of 碍耻峁囜笉补濒补. 惭补峁噄办耻峁囜笉补濒补 is seen referred to in 惭腻谤办补峁囜笉别测补辫耻谤腻峁嘺 and 惭补迟蝉测补辫耻谤腻峁嘺. Devay膩ni is described there as wearing a pair of gem-set earring[2].
Bharata suggests 碍耻峁囜笉补濒补 for male and female actors[3].
碍腻濒颈诲腻蝉补 speaks of K膩帽canaku峁囜笉ala, 惭补峁噄办耻峁囜笉补濒补 and Cakraku峁囜笉ala. In 峁歵耻蝉补峁僪腻谤补, 碍耻峁囜笉补濒补 inlaid with ruby is referred to[4].
笔补迟谤补办耻峁囜笉补濒补 (Leaf shaped), 狈补办谤补办耻峁囜笉补濒补 (Crocodile shaped), 搁补迟苍补办耻峁囜笉补濒补 (Bejewelled), 惭补办补谤补办耻峁囜笉补濒补 (Alligator designed), 厂补谤辫补办耻峁囜笉补濒补 (Snake shaped) and 艢补峁卥丑补辫补迟谤补办耻峁囜笉补濒补 (Conchshell shaped) are exhibited in the idols of gods. Of these, 艢补峁卥丑补辫补迟谤补办耻峁囜笉补濒补 is seen with the deity Um膩, 厂补谤辫补办耻峁囜笉补濒补 with 艢颈惫补 and 骋补峁噀艣补, while the rest are worn by all the deities[5].
叠腻峁嘺 gives numerous references to 碍耻峁囜笉补濒补 of various patterns. 碍腻诲补尘产补谤墨 is described as wearing leaf shaped 碍耻峁囜笉补濒补 inlaid with ruby and emerald[6]. In another context while describing a betel leaf bearer, 惭补办补谤补办耻峁囜笉补濒补 is mentioned[7]. In 贬补谤峁肠补谤颈迟补, a harp shaped 碍耻峁囜笉补濒补 dotted with jewels, worn by 贬补谤峁 is described[8]. Crystal made 碍耻峁囜笉补濒补 and Navaratnaku峁囜笉ala also come in 叠腻峁嘺鈥檚 description[9]. It is said that a rainbow coloured luster emanating from the multi-jewel studded 碍耻峁囜笉补濒补 was reflected on the 鲍迟迟补谤墨测补 of Key奴raka[10]. 叠腻峁嘺 indicates 碍耻峁囜笉补濒补 by the name 叠腻濒颈办腻 also. He describes 惭腻濒补迟墨 wearing 叠腻濒颈办腻 resembling Bakula fruits[11].
In the works of 搁腻箩补艣别办丑补谤补, we have references to Cakraku峁囜笉ala and also to one designed like a peacock tail. Such 碍耻峁囜笉补濒补 are studded with multi coloured jewels[12].
Some other texts mentioning 碍耻峁囜笉补濒补 are 叠峁沨补迟蝉补峁僪颈迟腻, 艢颈艣耻辫腻濒补惫补诲丑补 and 搁腻尘补肠补谤颈迟补 (搁腻尘补肠补谤颈迟补)[13].
Footnotes and references:
[1]:
V.5.71,78, 125, 17.32
[2]:
础驳苍颈辫耻谤腻峁嘺, 112-116; 厂办补苍诲补辫耻谤腻峁嘺, V.3.106.15; 痴腻测耻辫耻谤腻峁嘺, p.210; 惭腻谤办补峁囜笉别测补辫耻谤腻峁嘺, 2.1.100; 79.25, 21.103; 惭补迟蝉测补辫耻谤腻峁嘺, 27.17, 58.16, 136.38
[3]:
狈腻峁瓂补艣腻蝉迟谤补, 16-20
[4]:
峁歵耻蝉补峁僪腻谤补, II.19; 搁补驳丑耻惫补峁兣沘, X.51
[5]:
JPAI, p.27; ASHAA, p.220
[6]:
NTAIS, p.86
[7]:
Ibid
[8]:
贬补谤峁肠补谤颈迟补, p.74
[9]:
Ibid
[10]:
Ibid
[12]:
痴颈诲诲丑补蝉腻濒补产丑补帽箩颈办腻, III.7; 碍补谤辫奴谤补尘补帽箩补谤墨, IV.13
[13]:
叠峁沨补迟蝉补峁僪颈迟腻, XLIII.25; 艢颈艣耻辫腻濒补惫补诲丑补, II.19; III.5; VI.27; 搁腻尘补肠补谤颈迟补, XII.113-116, XVII.241,72