Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India
by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words
This page relates ‘Trade and Commerce (of clothes and dresses)� of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.
Go directly to: Footnotes.
7. Trade and Commerce (of clothes and dresses)
Textile industry in India was in a developed state even at an early period. Dress materials were manufactured in different parts of the country. They were imported from the neighboring countries also. Different countries were famous for the production of certain types of clothes. In general, cotton, linen, wool and silk textures were manufactured. ղśⲹ were experts in the field of trade.
In Vedic period itself textile articles had a good market. A complete hymn in Atharvaveda[1] is devoted to the wishes for success in trade. From ṻ岹[2] we learn that the countries Paruṣṇi and Ի were famous in that Period for the production of different varieties of wool. It is also indicated that sheep was seen in abundance on the banks of the river Sindhu. In Ѳٲ[3], we have reference to the wool presented by the Kings of 峾Ჹ, Āī, īԲ and Vālhika to ۳ܻṣṭ on the occasion of his Ჹūⲹ sacrifice.
It was in the southern regions that the production of cotton flourished. In Ѳٲ[4] we find that kings from Bharukaccha, Cola and ṇḍⲹ countries presented cotton clothes to ۳ܻṣṭ during the sacrifice. ṭiīⲹ ٳśٰ[5] informs us about the countries, in which the best varieties of cotton clothes were manufactured. Some of them are Ѳܰ, 貹Գٲ첹, ṅg, ղṅg, Vasta and ṣa첹. In ṭṭīٲ[6] it is recorded that cotton was largely cultivated in that period. Fostering of rams for wool also is attested in the text.
Countries like īԲ, Vālhika, ʳṇḍ, Suvarṇakuḍya, ṅg, Kosala, Magadha and ղṅg were famous for the production of different varieties of silk. Of these, it is mentioned in ṭiīⲹ ٳśٰ[7] that Bengal was famous for the production of white as well as soft ٳܰū. Blue and smooth one was manufactured in ʳṇḍ, while from Suvarṇakuḍya, a reddish variety was made. Magadha was famous for ʲٰǰṇa.
In ṭiīⲹ ٳśٰ[8] there are references to different sorts of ṣaܳ clothes, manufactured in different countries. There it is mentioned that in ղṅg country, white and soft ṣaܳ clothes were produced. ṇḍⲹ country was famous for its black and soft linen clothes, while sun coloured and soft ones were prepared by Suvarṇakuḍyaṃs. The smoothness of these three varieties is compared to the surface of a gem. ṣaܳ from Assam was also famous. In Ჹṣaٲ[9], Bhāskaravarman is described as presenting ṣaܳ, made from 峾ū貹 along with other gift articles to ᲹṣaԲ.
To conclude, clothes are considered not merely as one among the primary necessities of human being, but they are also reflectors of one’s aesthetic sense, personality, mood, social as well as economic conditions etc. It is not clear, when man began to cover his nudity. However it is clear that people were conscious about well dressing, even at the early stages of civilization. This is evident from the terms Suvāsas, Suvasana, Surabhi etc. which occur frequently in ṻ岹, Śٲ貹ٳ-ṇa and Aitareya-ṇa[10]. In Śٲ貹ٳ-ṇa[11], there is a passage, which describes man’s natural instinct to look for people who are decently attired. Similarly some hymns in ṻ岹[12] point to the fondness of people, especially of women, towards well dressing. In some of these hymns goddesses are described as elegantly dressed.
Sanskrit literature not only illustrates the above mentioned different aspects of the idea of cloth wearing, but it sometimes directly informs us the developed state of social as well as aesthetic sense of human being, even at the early stages of our civilization.
Footnotes and references:
[1]:
III.15
[2]:
X.75.8, I.126.7
[4]:
Ibid
[5]:
II.11.81
[6]:
v.870
[7]:
II.11
[8]:
Ibid
[9]:
[10]:
Aitareya-ṇa, 2.55; ṻ岹, VI.51.4, IX.97.50, I.24.7, III.8.4, X.71.4
[11]:
13.4.1.15
[12]:
I.124.7, IV.3.2,V.80.5, 6