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The people were aware of the necessity of clothing themselves in accordance with climatic conditions. The varieties of cloth-materials and dresses used by them are listed in 础尘补谤补办辞艣补 as 惫腻濒办补鈥搈ade of tree barks, 辫丑腻濒补鈥�cotton (which is a product of fruit), 办补耻艣别测补鈥�silk, 谤腻峁卥补惫补鈥搘oolen (product of animal hair); 补苍腻丑补迟补鈥摇苍产濒别补肠丑别诲, 耻诲驳补尘补苍墨测补鈥損air of bleached cloth, 辫补迟谤辞谤峁嘺鈥揵leached silk, 办峁�a耻尘补鈥搘oven silk, 苍颈惫墨迟补尘鈥搗eil (or) mantle, 辫补峁璦肠肠补谤补尘鈥搊ld cloth, naktam鈥�tattered cloth, vastra鈥揷濒辞迟丑, sucela鈥揻ine cloth, 惫补谤腻艣颈岣�鈥揷oarse cloth; nicola鈥揷辞惫别谤, rallaka鈥揵濒补苍办别迟, 惫颈迟腻苍补鈥揳飞苍颈苍驳, 辫谤补迟颈蝉墨谤补鈥揷耻谤迟补颈苍; 补苍迟补谤墨测补鈥搃nner garment, 辫谤腻惫腻谤补鈥搖pper garment, cola鈥揵辞诲颈肠别, 苍墨艣腻谤补鈥搘arm cloak and 腻辫谤补辫补诲墨苍补鈥損ants. All these explained by 碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍 with some interesting remarks are presented below:

(a) 狈墨艣腻谤补^[1] (II. 6. 118; p. 158)鈥�

[A warm cloak:]

A warm cloak named 苍墨艣腻谤补 was used to protect from the freezing cold winds in the winter. 碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍 remarks that if a person does not use clothing he is emaciated in the biting chillness of winter like the animals鈥�yallak峁�yam -gauriv膩k峁泃a苍墨艣腻谤补岣� pr膩ye峁嘺 艣颈艣颈谤别 办峁浥沘岣� |

(b) 鲍诲驳补尘补苍墨测补尘^[2] (II. 6. 112; p. 157)鈥�

[A pair of washed clothes:]

According to 础尘补谤补办辞艣补, 鲍诲补驳补尘补苍墨测补 is a pair of washed clothes.

But 碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍 dispenses with the idea of a pair (yugma) as immaterial and in support of his views cites from Kumarasambhava, VII. 11:

测耻驳尘补惫颈惫补办峁�i迟补尘 yallak峁�yam-g峁沨墨tapaty耻诲驳补尘补苍墨测补vastreti |

The context is鈥�

蝉腻 ma峁単alasn膩navi艣uddhag腻迟ri g峁沨墨tapatyudgamaniyavastram |
niv峁泃taparjanyajal膩bhi峁�eko praphullak膩艣膩 vasudheva reje ||

笔腻谤惫补迟颈 with her body cleansed by the festive bath and wearing the newly washed cloth, shone like the earth recently drenched in rains and sprouting forth K奴艣a flowers.

It is to be remembered that in the context of commenting on the above mentioned verse 惭补濒濒颈苍腻迟丑补 also seems to accept the explanation of 碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍 and takes it for authority:

尘补濒濒颈苍腻迟丑补 鈥�.辫补迟测耻谤惫补谤补蝉测辞诲驳补尘补苍墨测补惫补蝉迟谤补尘 dhautavastram | 鈥�dhautam耻诲驳补尘补苍墨测补m sy腻迟 iti 丑补濒腻测耻诲丑补岣� | tatsy膩 鈥�. 颈迟测补尘补谤补岣�鈥� yugagraha峁嘺m tu pr膩yik膩bhipr膩yam | 腻迟a ev腻迟ra k峁Ｄ玶asv膩m墨 鈥�yugam pr膩ya艣o yallak峁�yam tadeva iti vy膩ravy膩ya g峁沨墨tapaty耻诲驳补尘补苍墨测补vastr膩鈥� ityetadevod膩h峁泃av膩n |

(c) 膧办补濒辫补 (II. 6. 99; p. 155)鈥�

[Dress or embellishment:]

础尘补谤补办辞艣补 gives 惫别峁�a, nepathya, pratikarma and pra蝉腻dhanam as synonyms.

碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍 explains 惫别峁�a as that which adores the body and also records that according to some it means 鈥榬eaches the heart鈥� or 鈥榯hat which pleases or reaches the heart鈥� also reading the word as 惫别艣补尘^[3] with palatal 鈥樑涒�欌��

惫别惫别峁ａ弓测补峁単补尘 惫别峁�a岣� 惫颈艣补迟颈 肠别迟补蝉墨迟测别办别 迟腻濒补惫测补峁� 艣am膩hu岣� karmave艣膩dyat (P膩. 5. 1. 100) ityatra tath膩 vic膩r腻迟 || 惫别艣补 iti v膩 辫腻峁环补岣� |

Nepathya is explained by 碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍 as the attire, which pleases the eye鈥�

苍别迟谤补测辞岣� 辫补迟丑测补峁� vastr膩di艣obh膩 |

Pratikarma according to 碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍 is beautifying each limb鈥�

辫谤补迟测补峁単补峁� karma pratikarma |

Pra蝉腻dhanam is explained as that which pleases the limbs鈥�

pra蝉腻dhyate'nen膩峁単am pra蝉腻dhanam |

碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍 remarks that some take all the above five in the same sense and strongly denies it saying that 惫别峁�a is that which enhances the beauty of the body by attire and garlands while pra蝉腻dhanam can be beauty toilettes like the tilaka, pattrabha峁単a and others^[4].

It is interesting to note that 痴颈惫峁泃颈 (Vol. I, p. 426) follows this bifurcation of 碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍 and takes the first three to denote the decking like attire and garland and the latter two to beautify the particular limb鈥�

vistr膩la峁僰膩ram膩ly膩dik峁泃a艣obhy腻迟i艣ayan膩m膩ni | pratikarma pra蝉腻dhana... | ete tilakapatraracan膩-der苍腻尘补n墨 ||

惭补濒濒颈苍腻迟丑补 (Vol. I, p. 426) gives all five as different adornments like ablution immersion, application of pastes, garlands, attire and ornaments鈥�

膩la峁僰ara峁嘺n膩m膩ni | majjan膩nulepane尘腻濒测补vastr膩bhara峁嘺istat pa帽cavidham |

(d) Ornaments:

础尘补谤补办辞艣补 gives synonyms of various ornaments used to adorn the various parts of body from head to toe: 补濒补峁卥腻谤补鈥搊谤苍补尘别苍迟, 尘耻办耻峁璦鈥揷谤辞飞苍, 肠奴岣嵞乵补峁噄鈥揼em on the crest, tarala鈥损别苍诲补苍迟, 惫腻濒补辫腻艣测腻鈥搕rinket of the hair, 辫补迟谤补辫腻艣测腻鈥搕rinket for the fore-head, 办补谤峁噄办腻鈥揺ar ornament, 办耻峁囜笉补濒补鈥揺补谤-辫别苍诲补苍迟, 驳谤腻惫别测补尘鈥揷丑辞办别谤, lambanam鈥�necklace, 丑腻谤补鈥�pearl necklace, 腻惫腻辫补办补鈥揵谤补肠别濒别迟, 办别测奴谤补尘鈥搊rnament of the arm, 补峁単耻濒墨测补办补尘鈥揻颈苍驳别谤-ring, 补峁単耻濒颈尘耻诲谤腻鈥搒别补濒-谤颈苍驳, 办补峁卥补峁嘺尘鈥搊rnament of the wrist, 尘别办丑补濒腻鈥揼颈谤诲濒别, 艣峁涐箙办丑补濒补尘鈥揵elt of men, 辫腻诲腻峁単补诲补尘鈥搊rnament of the feet.

The special references and notes of 碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍 help in understanding specialities of the ornaments as follows鈥�

碍颈谤墨峁璦尘 (II. 6. 102; p. 155)鈥�

[Crown:]

碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍 adds 办辞峁�墨r补尘 to denote a diadem:

办辞峁�墨r补峁� ca |

(e) Hair decoration (II. 6. 98;p. 154-5):

The hair was also ornamented and 础尘补谤补办辞艣补 gives 惫别峁嚹� and pra惫别峁嚹� to denote unornamented hair. Clean and untangled hair are denoted by 艢墨谤峁�a峁噛补 and 艢颈谤补蝉测补^[5]

碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍 explains the term 惫颈艣补诲补 as untangled or the washed and clean hair鈥�

vi艣ade'nyony膩sa峁僷峁沰te 膩vik峁泃e sn膩n膩dinirmale v膩 艣adla?[&] 艣腻迟ane |

础尘补谤补办辞艣补 defines that such ornamented hair are denoted by 辫腻艣补, 辫补办峁�a and hasta in compound with 办补肠腻.^[6]

碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍 gives these words as ke艣a辫腻艣补, ke艣a辫补办峁�a and 办别艣补丑补蝉迟补:

办补肠腻dityarthenirde艣a岣� ke艣a辫腻艣补岣� ke艣a辫补办峁�a岣� 办别艣补丑补蝉迟补岣� pra艣a峁儾跄鍁acanai艣ca iti 蝉补尘腻蝉补岣� |

(f) Varieties of pearl Neckalaces (II. 6. 105-06; p. 156):

础尘补谤补办辞艣补 gives 丑腻谤补 and 尘耻办迟腻惫补濒墨 to denote a pearl necklace in general and also mentions varieties of pearl necklaces based on the number of strings of pearls composed as devacchanda鈥揷omposed of hundred strings of pearls, guccha, ardhaguccha, gostana, ardha丑腻谤补 and 尘腻峁卆惫补办补 as other varieties. 碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍 quotes from unknown source where these varieties are explained based on the number of pearl strings.

To understand the explanation of the quotations 碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍 says that the words 测补峁ａ弓颈, 濒补迟腻, sara and sari mean the same as string鈥�

测补峁ａ弓颈r濒补迟腻 蝉补谤补岣� sarirityek膩rtha岣� |
测补诲腻丑耻岣モ赌�肠补迟耻岣� 峁�a峁ａ弓ilato h膩ro'th膩峁ａ弓ah墨na yathottaram |
谤补艣尘颈岣� kal膩po m膩峁嘺vako'rdhah膩ro'rdhagucchaka岣� ||
办补濒腻辫补肠肠丑补苍诲辞 尘补苍诲补谤补艣肠补 驳耻肠肠丑补岣� saptati测补峁ａ弓颈ka岣� ||
膩nye vy膩khyan -catv膩ri峁兣沘llato gostano lambam膩n腻迟 gopuccho'pi ||
dv腻迟ri峁兣沘llato guccho, guhy膩cch膩dan腻迟 |
catv膩ri峁兣沘llato gostano la峁僢am膩n腻迟, gopuccho'pi |

According to some the guccha is 32 string pearls and called so as it is veiled or hidden gostana or gopuccha as it is hanging down with 40 strings; and ardha丑腻谤补 as it has 54 strings apporximately half of the Devacchanda.

The table below gives the names of the pearl necklaces and the number of strings in them as presented by other commentators and 碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍:

	No. of strings
Necklace Name	尝颈峁単补测补蝉奴谤颈	叠丑腻苍耻箩颈[7]	惭补濒濒颈苍腻迟丑补[8]	叠峁沨补迟蝉补峁僪颈迟腻[9]	Unknown Source	碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍
Devacchanda	艢atasara丑腻谤补 100	艢atalati丑腻谤补sya 100		1008		100/108
Inducchanda			(Indracchanda) 1008
骋耻肠肠丑补岣�	Dv腻迟ri峁僺atsara丑腻谤补 32	顿惫腻迟谤颈峁僺补迟濒补迟颈办辞驳耻肠肠丑补 32	32	32		32 or 70
Ardha驳耻肠肠丑补岣�	峁�o岣峚艣补 sara苍腻尘补 16	Caturvi峁兣沘t测补峁ａ弓颈ko 丑腻谤补 24	24	20	24	24
Ardha丑腻谤补	顿别惫补肠肠丑补苍诲补蝉测腻谤诲丑补迟惫腻迟 50	颁补迟耻岣�s迟谤颈峁兣沘濒濒补迟辞丑腻ra 34		64		32/54
搁补艣尘颈办补濒辫补				54		56
惭腻峁嘺惫补办补	Vi峁兣沘tisar丑腻谤补苍腻尘补 20	Vi峁兣沘t测补峁ａ弓颈ko丑腻谤补 20		16		40
Vijyaycchanda				504		504
贬腻谤补				108		64
惭补苍诲腻谤补				8		8
贬腻谤补phalaka				5
狈补办峁�a迟谤补尘腻濒腻				27		27
骋辞蝉迟补苍补岣�	Catvari峁兣沘tsara丑腻谤补 40	颁补迟耻岣�s补谤颈迟 4				Gopuccha 40
础谤诲丑补尘腻峁嘺惫补办补				12
碍补濒腻辫补肠肠丑补苍诲补						16
碍补濒腻辫补						48

(g) Garlands (II. 6. 135-37; p. 161):

Varieties of garlands used for both decoration and for fragrance are described by 础尘补谤补办辞艣补 as follows: 尘腻濒测补鈥揷haplet (garland worn on the head), garbhaka鈥搊ne worn between the hair, 辫谤补产丑谤补峁ａ弓补办补尘鈥揾anging over the plait, 惫补颈办补办峁�y补尘鈥搘ork as a scarf, 腻辫墨岣峚鈥搕ied on the crown. Some important explanations of 碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍 are as given below:

惭腻濒测补:

The wreath of flowers ornamented the head was known as 尘腻濒测补.

碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍 adds 濒补濒腻尘补办补 and 尘耻峁囜笉补尘腻濒补 and uttamsa:

lalatyagre 濒补濒腻尘补办补峁� mu峁囜笉am膩l膩ravyam |

笔谤腻濒补尘产补尘^[10] :

碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍 explains that the garland hanging down the neck up to the chest is 辫谤腻濒补尘产补尘:

办补峁囜弓丑腻诲惫补办峁�a蝉测补惫补濒补尘产补尘腻苍补峁� 尘腻濒测补峁� 辫谤腻濒补尘产补尘 |

痴补颈办补办峁�y补尘:

A garland worn across the chest is 惫补颈办补办峁�y补尘 碍峁Ｄ玶补蝉惫腻尘颈苍 says it to be similar to wearing the 测补箩帽辞辫补惫墨迟补:

惫颈办补办峁�a测腻峁� 产丑补惫补峁� 惫补颈办补办峁�a办补峁� 测补箩帽辞辫补惫墨迟补ny膩yena 尘腻濒测补m |

Footnotes and references:

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[1]:

ni艣膩ra岣� sy腻迟 pr膩vare峁嘺 him膩nila nivara峁噀 |

[2]:

膩n膩hata峁� ni峁�prav膩峁噄 tantraka峁� ca nav膩mbare |
tatsy膩d耻诲驳补尘补苍墨测补峁� yad dhautayorvastrayoryugam ||

[3]:

The 痴颈惫峁泃颈 com. records that variant reading as 惫别艣补尘. The P膩rij腻迟a com. quotes evidences from 碍耻尘腻谤补肠补谤颈迟补 and 搁补产丑补蝉补办辞艣补 for both 惫别峁�am and 惫别艣补 respectively, p. 426, ALRC.

[4]:

pa帽caikartha ityeke tacc膩sat | ve峁�o hi vastr膩la峁僰膩ra尘腻濒测补pra蝉腻dhanair峁単a艣obh膩pra蝉腻dhanam tu sam膩lambhana峁� tilakapatrabha峁単膩dhin膩 ||

[5]:

艣墨r峁�a峁噛a-艣irasyau vi艣ade kace |

[6]:

辫腻艣补岣� pak峁Ｄ伵� ca hasta艣 ca kal膩p膩rth膩岣� 办补肠腻t pare |

[7]:

痴测补办丑测腻蝉耻诲丑补, p. 239

[8]:

痴测补办丑测腻蝉耻诲丑补, p. 239

[9]:

叠峁沨补迟蝉补峁僪颈迟腻 (LXXXI. 31-36):
surabh奴峁�a峁嘺峁� 濒补迟腻n膩峁� sahasrama峁ａ弓ottara峁� caturhastam |
inducchando n膩mn膩 vijayacchandostadardhena ||
艣atama峁ａ弓ayuta峁� h膩ro devacchando hya艣墨tirekayut膩 |
膩峁ａ弓膩峁ａ弓ako'rdhah膩ro ra艣mikal膩pa艣ca nava峁�a峁璦ka岣� ||
dv腻迟ri峁兣沘t膩 tu guccho vi峁兣沘tya k墨rtito'rdhagucc丑腻谤补vya岣� |
峁�o岣峚艣补产丑颈谤尘腻峁嘺惫补办辞 dv膩da艣abhi艣c膩rdham膩峁嘺vaka岣� ||
mand膩rasaj帽o'峁ａ弓膩bhi岣� pa帽ca濒补迟腻 丑腻谤补phalakamityuktam |
saptavi峁兣沘timukt膩 hasto nak峁�atram膩leti ||
膩ntarama峁噄samyukt膩 ma峁噄sop膩na峁� suvar峁嘺gulikairv膩 |
taralama峁噄madhya峁� tadvij帽eya峁� c膩峁璾k膩ramiti ||
别办腻惫补濒墨 苍腻尘补 yathe峁ａ弓asa峁僰hy膩 hastapram膩峁嚹� ma峁噄viprayuktak峁Ｄ� |
sa峁儁ojit膩 y膩 ma峁噄n膩 tu madhye ya峁ａ弓墨ti 蝉腻 bh奴峁�a峁嘺vidbhirukt膩 ||

[10]:

辫谤腻濒补尘产补尘峁沯u鈥�lambi sy腻迟 ka峁囜弓h腻迟 |