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Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India

by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words

This page relates ‘Upper Garments (b): Avagunthana (Veil)� of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.

Go directly to: Footnotes.

2.1. Upper Garments (b): ṇṭ󲹲Բ (Veil)

ṇṭ󲹲Բ is a piece of cloth worn over the head in such a way so as to cover the face completely or partially. In some cases, ṇṭ󲹲Բ was long enough to cover the entire body. Sometimes the upper garment itself served the purpose of a veil. It was generally a costume of married women especially those belonging to aristocratic families as well as the royal inmates of a harem. It was an important item among the bride’s dress also. It was not considered as a daily ware. Since women had no freedom to move to the public places in those days, they usually wore veil outside the harem. From which period the practice of wearing veil started is not clear. However we have reference to ṇṭ󲹲Բ in ʳܰṇa, epics and in the later classical literature.

In ʳܰṇa[1], we come across upper garment itself serving as a veil.

In ī쾱-峾ⲹṇa[2], we read of the lamentation of Ѳṇḍǻ岹ī on the death of 屹ṇa, where the poet makes a reference to her veil. Even though there is no mention of a separate ṇṭ󲹲Բ, ī[3] also is described in many places as covering her head with the end of her lower garment.

But unlike ī쾱-峾ⲹṇa, we have only rare mentions to a veil in Ѳٲ. There we find ٰܱ貹ī covering her face with hair not in veil, when she sets out for exile[4]. No reference is seen to Svayamvara, where princess wearing veil. Similarly Arjuna is said to be attracted by the beauty of ܲ󲹻 as well as 侱ٰṅg[5]. This shows that women other than royal families had the freedom to reveal their face before men. In another context, the daughters-in -law of ٳṛtṣt[6] are seen being introduced to the sages without veil.

Use of veil by women is attested by Pāṇīni[7], ṭiⲹ[8], [9], ṇa[10], [11], ٲṇḍ[12], Śū첹[13] and Ჹṣa󲹲Բ[14].

Even though use of ṇṭ󲹲Բ was in vogue among women of social status, ṇa in one place in 岹ī[15] has described a tribal girl called Mātaṅgakanyā, going to the king’s court wearing a veil of red ṃśu첹. Abhisārikas also were represented by ṇa as wearing veil[16]. Their veil was of blue colour. From 岹ī we learn that a bride usually wore a veil of red colour.

In ṛc󲹰첹ṭi첹[17] there is a context, where a prostitute is described as attaining the status of a housewife by wearing a veil. From this it can be concluded that a veil symbolized chastity.

Footnotes and references:

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[2]:

VI, III.62

[3]:

60.2, 3

[4]:

II.71.6

[5]:

216.14, 15, 207.15,16, 3.54.8

[6]:

Ibid, XV.32, 9-15

[7]:

ICCO, pp.83-86

[8]:

Ibid

[9]:

ñԲśܲԳٲ, pp.13, 19; 岵Ծٰ, p.18

[10]:

岹ī, pp.192, 259; Ჹṣaٲ, p.149

[11]:

Śśܱ, I.25

[12]:

ԳپܲԻ岹ī첹ٳ, pp.31, 36, 236

[13]:

ṛc󲹰첹ṭi첹, IV.24; X.58

[14]:

Nāgānanda, Act.III

[15]:

pp.192, 259

[16]:

岹ī, pp.21, 192, 259

[17]:

IV.24

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