Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India
by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words
This page relates 鈥楿pper Garments (a): Head Dress: Veshtana鈥� of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.
Go directly to: Footnotes.
2.1. Upper Garments (a): Head Dress: 痴别峁ａ弓补苍补
The definition of a 痴别峁ａ弓补苍补 is thus -
[...],[1]
痴别峁ａ弓补苍补 is referred to as used by both men and women. 碍腻濒颈诲腻蝉补[2] has used the term 痴别峁ａ弓补苍补 in the sense of a manner of tying turban. Sometimes 鲍迟迟补谤墨测补 itself served as 痴别峁ａ弓补苍补. It has been stated in 贬补谤峁肠补谤颈迟补[3].
In addition to the above mentioned names, some other names of head dress are, Kumbha, Kur墨ra, 艢irastr膩峁嘺, 艢颈办丑补峁囜笉补, 笔补峁弓补, 闯腻濒颈办腻 and C墨rac奴岣峣k膩. Of these Kumbha and Kur墨ra were specially meant for ladies. It is stated in 叠补耻诲丑腻测补苍补-艣谤补耻迟补蝉奴迟谤补[4] that at the time of 搁腻箩补蝉奴测补 order was given to gold smiths for making golden Kumbha and Kur墨ra for all the royal female inmates of the harem. There it is further stated that while performing 搁腻箩补蝉奴测补, this head dress was handed over by the priest to the wife of the sacrificer. She should wear the Kumbha and Kur墨ra at the same time, when the king wears the turban. These head dresses are described in 膧辫补蝉迟补尘产补-艣谤补耻迟补蝉奴迟谤补[5] as a net like hair dress. 碍腻迟测腻测补苍补-艣谤补耻迟补蝉奴迟谤补[6] refers to this net by the term 闯腻濒补. 艢irastr膩峁嘺 is mentioned by 碍腻濒颈诲腻蝉补[7]. 叠腻峁嘺 has referred to 艢颈办丑补峁囜笉补 and 闯腻濒颈办腻[8]. We have reference to 笔补峁弓补 in 叠丑腻蝉补鈥檚 works[9]. C墨rac奴岣峣k膩 is attested by 顿补峁囜笉颈[10]. C墨rac奴岣峣k膩, as the name indicates is a cloth, worn over the crest. In one place 顿补峁囜笉颈 refers to a C墨rac奴岣峣k膩 of blue 础峁兣泆办补.
People were skilled in tying turbans in various styles. From the description made by 笔补迟补帽箩补濒颈[11] in one place, it is clear that there were turbans, shaped so as to cover the entire head. In 贬补谤峁肠补谤颈迟补[12] we find that turbans were worn in such a way that different designs of knots were produced on it. 叠腻峁嘺[13] alludes to one turban having Svastika shaped knot in the centre. 叠腻峁嘺 attests the use of cone shaped caps also[14].
Different colours of turbans were employed for different occasions. During the magic rites, a red coloured turban was worn by the performer. In 惭补丑腻产丑腻谤补迟补[15], the turbans of 顿谤辞峁嘺 and 叠丑墨峁补 are referred to as white in colour. In 碍腻诲补尘产补谤墨[16], we come across white and black coloured turbans.
Turbans were an important item during the stage performance. But Bharata[17] prescribes them only for those, who belong to respectable class such as kings, ministers, soldiers, priests and rich merchants. They are suggested to wear winding turbans. Sometimes their head dress consists of a turban and a mask, both in a mutually attached form.
From the above given information it can be concluded that head dress generally symbolise dignity. Hence it was mostly worn by people of high social status.
Footnotes and references:
[2]:
搁补驳丑耻惫补峁兣沘, VIII.12
[3]:
pp.109,121
[4]:
XV.15
[5]:
X.9.7
[6]:
VII.4.7
[7]:
搁补驳丑耻惫补峁兣沘, VIII.12; 碍耻尘腻谤补蝉补尘产丑补惫补, VIII.35, IV.14, 41
[8]:
贬补谤峁肠补谤颈迟补, p.32; 碍腻诲补尘产补谤墨, p.209
[9]:
顿补谤颈诲谤补肠腻谤耻诲补迟迟补, Act I
[10]:
顿补艣补办耻尘腻谤补肠补谤颈迟补, p.141
[11]:
惭补丑腻产丑腻峁补, I.1.27
[12]:
p.109
[13]:
Ibid
[14]:
碍腻诲补尘产补谤墨, p.401
[15]:
4.104
[16]:
p.312
[17]:
狈腻峁瓂补艣腻蝉迟谤补, 21.149