Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India
by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words
This page relates ‘Use of Candana (Sandal)� of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.
Go directly to: Footnotes.
1.1. Use of Candana (Sandal)
Sandal (Candana), a tree of genus Santalum album is found in Indian forests since ancient times. Besides its use as cosmetic, sandal has plenty of medicinal properties and it is necessary in certain religious practices. Sandal is employed in the manufacturing of furniture also. It is interesting to note that we have no reference to sandal in ancient Vedas. But we come across sandal in the later Vedic texts, other literary works and medical treatises.
ś refers to four synonyms of sandal�
A sandal wood is known as ҲԻḍhⲹ, while powdered sandal is called Gandha. Since sandal is a valuable object, ṭiⲹ recommends it as one among the articles, which are to be entered into the treasury.
a) Varieties of Sandal
Sandal is varied according to its colour, smell and other characteristics. ṭiīⲹ ٳśٰ[1] gives an account of different varieties of sandal as shown in the following table.
Sandal | Colour | Other Characteristics |
ٲԲ | Red | Having smell similar to watery earth |
Ҵśīṣa첹 | Dark red | Resembles fish in smell |
Haricandana | Looks like the feathers of parrot | Smell of mango fruit |
ṇa | Looks like the feathers of parrot | Smell of mango fruit |
Ұ峾ܰ첹 | Red or dark red | Smells like goat’s urine |
Daivasabhey a | Red | Smells like lotus flower |
Aupaka (貹첹) | Red | Smells like lotus flower |
ṅg첹 | Red or dark red | Soft |
ղܰū貹 | Red or dark red | Soft |
ⲹ첹 | Reddish white | Soft |
Kucandana | Red, dark red or black similar to Aguru | Rough |
貹ٲk a | Red, dark red or black similar to | Obtained from the mountain 貹ٲ |
Aguru | ||
ś Parvataka | Black | This has its origin in the mountain ś |
Śīٴǻ岹īⲹ | Black | Soft, smells like a lotus flower |
岵parvata ka | Looks like Ś (Vallisneria) | Rough, found in 岵 mountain |
Ś첹 | Brown |
With the exception of Ś첹, we have reference to all the above mentioned varieties in Subhāṣitaratnabhaṇḍāgāra[2]. ś[3] records three varieties -ղ貹ṇi첹, Ҵśīṣa첹 and Haricandana. According to the commentator Bhānujidīkṣita[4], ղ貹ṇi첹 is originated in the tree Tailaparṇa. It is red in colour and ś[5] mentions four synonyms of it: Raktacandana, Kucandana, Patrāṅga and 鲹ñᲹԲ. In DhanvantarīԾṇṭ[6], five varieties of sandals are mentioned: ŚٲԻ岹Բ, Raktacandana (Petrocarpus Santalinus), īⲹ첹 and Barbiraka. Of these īⲹ첹 is yellow and the text records Haricandana as one of its synonyms. Barbiraka is white and devoid of smell. It is originated in the country Barbara.
Of the above listed varieties of sandal, Haricandana, Malayaja and īⲹ첹 were most popular and were mostly used by royal personages. Use of Haricandana is recorded even in ʳܰṇa. In 첹ṇḍⲹܰṇa (첹ṇḍⲹܰṇa)[7], the demon վܻū貹 is described in one context as decorating his body with Haricandana. [8] often refers to īⲹ첹 and Haricandana in his works.
b) Properties of Sandal
In general, sandal is cool, light and hence it is beneficial in alleviating heat. Unguents made of sandal were besmeared on the body of kings during their royal bath. In Ѳٲ[9], we come across, ۳ܻṣṭ, anointing his body with red sandal paste before bath. Water for bath also was perfumed with sandal. In ’s[10] works, we often read of love sick persons besmearing sandal on their body. Regarding its medicinal properties, medical texts describe a lot. In ٳԱԳٲī-Ծṇṭ[11] and ᲹԾṇṭ (Ჹ-Ծṇṭ)[12] properties of different varieties of sandal are described. As per these texts, sandal is a pacifier of thirst and it is used as a medicine for Raktapitta. In addition to its use as cosmetics and medicines, sandal was employed in building houses and making furniture. ṛhٲṃh[13] suggests sandalwood for making beds, seats, idols and even houses.
Sandal was prepared artificially also. 鲹ٲ첹[14] refers to a recipe for such a sandal preparation.
Footnotes and references:
[1]:
II. XI. 78
[2]:
p.176
[3]:
II. VI. 131
[4]:
p. 383
[5]:
II.VI
[7]:
II.15
[8]:
Ṛtܲṃh, VI.60
[11]:
䲹Ի岹徱
[12]:
p.34
[13]:
LXXIX.2,12; LIX.5
[14]:
vv.89-131