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Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India

by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words

This page relates ‘Materials (a): Vajra (Diamond)� of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.

Go directly to: Footnotes.

1.2. Materials (a): Vajra (Diamond)

Diamond is a hardest and highly priced gem used to make all sorts of ornaments. ʳܰṇa deal elaborately with diamond. ṭiīⲹ ٳśٰ, ṛhٲṃh and ԲDZ also give a detailed account of diamond.

According to Ҳḍaܰṇa[1], diamond is obtained from six sources and they differ in colour. The classification is as follows.

Source Colour
ձṇātٱ Red
ܱī Similar to dark cloud
ṅg Colour of gold
Kosala Yellowish shade
ʳṇd Black
ٲṅg (Temple of elephant) Dark yellow


Regarding the signs of an excellent diamond, it is said that those that are very tiny, glossy, having equally softened sides and sharp ends, without any scratches, spots, dots, lines or marks are good. A diamond with all the above mentioned qualities is considered as the dwelling of deities. Even a minute damage of diamond is considered inauspicious. Diamonds of different colours are presided over by different deities. They are also associated with different ղṇa.

The tables given below explain it[2].

Colour Deity
Green վṣṇ
White ղṇa
Yellow Indra
Tawny Agni
Dark Yama
Red Maruts
Colour ղṇa
Similar to conch, white lotus and crystal 󳾲ṇa
Looks like hare’s eye ṣaٰⲹ
Resembles a plantain leaf ղśⲹ
Like a well polished sword Śū


For a king, diamond with colours of turmeric juice or similar to the colour of a flower is prescribed.

An excellent diamond can drive out snake’s poison. It keeps away the fear of fire, tiger thieves and water. It is said to be useful in the rituals related to sorcery. Since diamond is the hardest of all objects in the world, it is impossible to cut or even make a scratch on a diamond with any objects other than another diamond[3].

Mines, flow of water and temples of elephants are the main sources of diamond, mentioned in ṭiīⲹ ٳśٰ[4]. Of these, diamonds got from the mines and flow of water was known by the term ʰīṇa첹.

In addition to these, ṭiⲹ gives special references to another six places, where diamonds are found. They are -

  1. Sabhārāṣtra (Near Bombay),
  2. Kāstirarāṣtra (Region of Śrīkhaṇṭa mountain),
  3. Uttara (ѲṇiԳٳ mountain) and
  4. Indravāna (ṅg region).

ṭiⲹ describes a lot about the quality of a good diamond. Regarding its defects, he agrees with the ʳܰṇa. References to various colours of diamonds are seen in ṭiīⲹ ٳśٰ. Thus diamonds with colours similar to Śīṣa flower, cow’s urine, Gorocana etc. are described[5].

To the Purāṇic list of sources of diamond, ṛhٲṃh adds ᾱⲹ region. Its colour is said to be similar to copper. According to the text, the diamond mined from the bank of ձṇ� river is the purest of all. ṛhٲṃh also associates the various colours and shapes of diamonds with various deities[6].

They are�

Colour Shape Deities
White Hexagonal Indra
Dark Snake’s mouth Yama
Resembling plantain leaf Varied վṣṇ
Similar to ṇi Female genital organ ղṇa
Looks like tiger’s eye Triangular Agni
Of śǰ첹 flower Corn of barley


The price of a diamond is calculated proportionate to its quality and weight. The normal weight of a diamond is equal to twenty rice grains. Such a diamond drifts on water and is considered the best. Wearing diamond by a woman desiring a child is generally not encouraged. But ṛhٲṃh recommends diamonds of good trait for women longing for a child[7].

P.C Ray[8] gives details of three categories of diamond -male, female and hermaphrodite. Their shape, size and colour are different. These are again divided into 󳾲ṇa, ṣaٰⲹ, ղśⲹ and Śū on the basis of their colour. The text also discusses the chemical processes related to diamond such as melting, purification, ‘killing� and reducing into ashes.

Footnotes and references:

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[1]:

I.68.17

[2]:

I.68.21, 22

[3]:

I.46.48, 68.23, 27, 33, 34

[4]:

II.11.77

[5]:

Ibid

[6]:

80.6-7

[7]:

LXXIX.12-18

[8]:

AHHC, pp.100-104

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