Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India
by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words
This page relates ‘Materials for Garments (d): Skin clothes from Animals� of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.
Go directly to: Footnotes.
1. Materials for Garments (d): Skin clothes from Animals
Skins were used for both clothes and seats. It was usually the dress of ascetics, hermits, students and of those who are in exile. But use of skins was prevalent among other people also. In ī쾱-峾ⲹṇa[1] we find ṣa clothed in skin.
In Vedic age skins were in common among the ṇa, while հٲⲹ and tribal sects used skins occasionally. In Atharvaveda[2], we find these tribals dancing as dressed in ṛtپ or Dūrśa. Unlike others հٲⲹ[3] wore two pieces of skin, which is indicated by the term Kṛṣṇavalkṣa in one context, meaning a black and white. Some mythological characters are also represented as clad in skins. The hymn of ⲹ[4] referred to the king Praṣkaṇva, presenting dressed hides. Skins were presented as gifts since Vedic time. Skins for clothing were usually taken from animals like deer, goat and cow.
a) Deer Skin
Use of deer skin was prevalent since Ṛgvedic time. ṻ岹[5] mentions Maruts as dressed in deer skins. Deer skins were of different types. Some of them are ṛṣṇājԲ (Antelope skin), Eṇājina, skin of 䲹ū, spotted deer, Ruru deer and Medhya. Of these some sort of sanctity was attached to ṛṣṇājԲ and hence it was mostly used in religious ceremonies. During sacrifice, in addition to sacrificial dress, skin of antelope was worn over the upper garment. For a student or a celibate, ṛṣṇājԲ was prescribed as upper garment. Giving antelope skin as gift was considered auspicious. ʳܰṇa often refer to gods and ʾṛs clothed in ṛṣṇājԲ. In 峾Բܰṇa[6], Brahma, վṣṇ and Ś are depicted as wearing ṛṣṇājԲ. There is even a chapter in Ѳٲⲹܰṇa[7], which discusses this subject. Ladies also wore ṛṣṇājԲ. This is evident in ī쾱-峾ⲹṇa[8], where Śī, a female ascetic is mentioned as wearing ṛṣṇāj峾. The ٳٲīⲹ of ṇḍ leaving for forest was of Ajina[9]. ٳṛtṣṭ setting out for forest also is represented in Ѳٲ as clothed in Valkala and Ajina[10]. During Mṛgavrata, people wore ṛṣṇājԲ. In Ѳٲ, ī is seen in a context observing such a penance by wearing ṛṣṇājԲ[11].
Among the other types of deer skin, skin of Ruru deer and Medhya were employed for seats. [12] has mentioned such costly skins. In Śśܱ[13], 岵 refers to carpets prepared from 䲹ū skin. Use of Eṇājina is mentioned there.
b) Goat Skin
Vedas, ṛhⲹūٰ and ṇa attest the use of goat skin. Upper garments of students in that period were either of ṛṣṇājԲ or that made of goat skin.
c) Cowhides
As per a story recorded in Śٲ貹ٳ-ṇa[14], at first men used cow skin as a covering for their body, later the skin was replaced with clothes by the gods. However cowhides were used occasionally. The upper garment of a sorcerer was usually of cowhide.
Besides the above mentioned types, elephant skins and tiger skins also were in vogue. But most of the references to these skins are associated with mythical characters. Ś[15] is often referred to in ʳܰṇa as dressed in elephant skin as well as tiger skin. In one context, ī, an attendant of Ś is called by the name Mṛgendrakṛttivāsas, meaning clad in elephant hide[16]. A ñܰ첹 made of elephant hide is described in Śśܱ[17]. Hunting dress was sometimes of tiger skin. In 岹ī[18], we have allusion to a hunter dressed in tiger skin.
Footnotes and references:
[1]:
III.5.9
[2]:
VIII.6.11
[4]:
ṻ岹, VII.2.3
[5]:
Ibid, I.166.10
[6]:
97.192, 21.50, 25.80, 30.221, 25.34
[7]:
첹
[9]:
Ѳٲ, 4.104
[11]:
Ibid, XII.264.7,V.11.7
[13]:
I.8
[14]:
III.I.13-16
[16]:
Ibid, 123.4
[17]:
I.4