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III : DRESS, RESS, ORNAMENTS, CO SMETICS AND LUXURIES (1) DRESS OF MEN The normal dress of men seems to have consisted of a turban-like head-dress, a robe, an upper garment loosely worn like a scarf on the shoulders, and a lower garment worn, like modern 'dhoti' from the waist. Thus, we are informed by Dhanapala that the lower silk garment put on by Gandharvaka was green like a parrot, had strips and was 320 fastened to the waist by a golden belt, The upper half of his body was covered with a fine circular crimson garment called 'Kurpasaka' which might have been like a jacket or 321 322 The a robe. This 'Kurpasaka' seems to be a tailored clothing usually worn by women as a sort a blouse or a bodice. The term 'Nivasana' seems to denote the lower garment. The robe might have been a formal dress to be put on while 323 319. cf. Tilakamanjari, p.363 ( 10 ) -- labdhapataka kalasu sakalasvapi kausalena-- 1 320. ibid.,p.164 (14ff.) tapaniya parikatha gadhabanaddha sukra haritapatta suka - nivasanah 1 --猸� 321. ibid.,p.164 (20ff.) suksmavimalena patalakusuma patala kantina vrttanetra kupasi kena I -- 322. Amarakosha, II, vi.118: inquifant PERIT: I and Namacandrika Commentary on Amarakosha on it, vizo, dve aprapadanika myukasya, strinam kanculika vyasya iti svami | ; also Hrv 1.197: kupasastvartha colakah | -- phalpadruma suru prayanivasanam 323. cf.Tilakamanjari,p.152 (17ff.) - 2545 974fa 92---|

559 moving in public. The specific mention of a robe (Kancuka) worn tightly by fastening it with small strings (kasa) 324 definitely indicates that such clothings were tailored ones. The usual domestic dress of men consisted of two garments, viz., the upper one and the lower one. Thus, King Meghavahana put on two white silk garments while perform- 325. ing his Sandhya?" Prince Harivahana is also said to have worn two pieces when he went to the Mattakokila garden? Similarly, Taraka, the sailor youth, had also put on two 327. fine white silk garments. The terms 'Uttariya', 'Uttarasanga', 'Uparima-vastra', 'Pravarana' and 'Pravara' seem to be almost synonymous and denote the upper garment 328the skirts 326 thrown over the shoulders and/hanging loose in front.k 329 Likewise the term 'Amsuka' also referred to the fine cloth used as upper garment, or perhaps a single piece worn both * as the upper as well as the under-garment in the manner of the popular (Sari' of the present day, and it could be 324. Tilakamanjari,p.232 (23ff.) drdhakrsta kancuka kasadhika krsodarasriyah --- 1 325.1bid., P鈥�34 (13)-- paridhaya tatkaladhaute kaladhaute ivavidhavalatya 'vibhavyamane dukulavasasi ..! 326. 'ibid.,p.105 (2) -- vasukiyukta nirmoka nirmala paridhaya vasoyugalam-- 1 327. ibid.,p.125 (3)-- ullikhitasan vavadata dhunini taniyasi nave duktavasasi vasanam --- 1 328. cf. ibid.,p.45 ( 14 ) -- tam haramuttariyancalaikadese babandha | ; 197 (23) .. uttarasabha sobhi--- saptarsi mandalam - 1; 404 (13)- parimrjya copanima- 404(13)-444 vastrancalena vadanam - - - 1 ; 337 (5) prthuna svasaharyena pattamsuka pravaranena caranavadhi pracchaditam 1; 380 ( 13 ) vidhaya cam pracayita nijapradharana sarvagesu | - -- > 329. cf. Amarakosha, II, vi, 115: vastramacchadana vasascelam vasanamamsukara

560 of any colour, though white, green and red are referred '330, to by the poet. China silk seems to be in use among 331, wealthy people and royalty "The head-dress was formal one, and perhaps normal too, and it consisted of a long strip of cloth cotten or silken which was twisted in folds to be wrapped round the head, and the end-piece hanging loosely at the back from the head almost up to the 332 waist. It was customary to beautifully dress oneself, especially so on festive and formal occasions. 333 However, the sailors (jalika) seem to be putting on a piece of cloth 334 serving the purpose just of a fig-leaf; and tha ascetics 325 naturally put on deer-skins