Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India
by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words
This page relates ‘Different Types of Ornaments (Introduction)� of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.
Go directly to: Footnotes.
2. Different Types of Ornaments (Introduction)
Ornaments are generally called by several names such as µþ³óūṣaṇa, Ä€²ú³ó²¹°ù²¹á¹‡a, ²Ñ²¹á¹‡á¸²¹²Ô²¹ and ´¡±ô²¹á¹…kÄå°ù²¹. µþ³óūṣaṇayojana (The wearing of ornament) was considered an art[1]. The exact shape or size of an ornament is not specified in any literary work. So it is difficult to understand whether they were synonyms or were of different characteristics. So we can only infer the pattern on the basis of their names. Basically, Bharata classifies ornaments into four-Ä€±¹±ð»å²â²¹ (To be pierced), µþ²¹²Ô»å³ó²¹²ÔÄ«²â²¹ (To be tied), Ká¹£epya (To be put upon) and Ä€°ù´Ç±è²â²¹ (To be worn round the neck)[2].
²ÑÄå²Ô²¹²õÄå°ù²¹ (²ÑÄå²Ô²¹²õÄå°ù²¹) groups ornaments in another way depending on the status of the wearer[3]. They areâ€�
1. Patrakalpa:—Ornaments of divinities, decorated with leaf patterns on it.
2. Citrakalpa:—Ornaments having floral patterns prescribed for sovereigns and celestials.
3. Ratnakalpa:—Ratnakalpa is meant for ´¡»å³ó¾±°ùÄåÂá²¹²õ and Narendras. They are made out of jewels and flowers.
4. ²Ñ¾±Å›°ù¾±³Ù²¹:—Worn by all.
Both of the above mentioned classifications (Seen in ²ÑÄå²Ô²¹²õÄå°ù²¹ and ±·Äåá¹y²¹Å›Äå²õ³Ù°ù²¹), include ornaments from head to feet. Some of these are discussed below in detail.
Head Ornaments
Head ornaments in general are those adorning the head, which include ornaments for forehead, crest, and hair. Though these ornaments are usually worn by kings and other royal personalities, some sort of head ornaments were worn by ordinary people also. They were made of metals, sometimes inlaid with precious stones. Flowers also were employed in their finishing. Head ornaments were known by various names some of them are� [...]
Ear Ornaments
Sufficient references are found for numerous models of ear ornaments. Earnings, ear tops and ear drops form part of ear ornaments. They were fashioned from metals, jewels, flowers and sprouts. Various methods were in vouge regarding their mode of wearing. A number of words are used to indicate ear ornaments. Some of them are as follows.—[...]
Nose Ornaments
Specific mentions of nose ornaments are rare. But in some places, the term Vesara is used to indicate them.
Neck Ornaments
Numerous variety of neck ornaments are referred to in our literature. They were made of many materials and were called by several names. Some of them are.—[...]
Hand Ornaments
Usually hand ornaments are of two types -armlets and wrist lets. Armlets are worn on the upper arms, while wristlets are for wrist, which are either bangles or bands tied round the wrist. They are made of gold, beeds, ivory, conch, glass and precious stones. Plain types or those modelled after different motifs at the end were in vogue. Men and women wear this ornament alike. Wearing this ornament was considered auspicious by women. A number of words are used to indicate hand ornaments. Some of them are—[...]
Finger Ornaments
The ornaments decorating the fingers were generally known as Aṅgulībhūṣaṇa. It is a subject of reference in most of the works ranging from Vedas. Rings of various designs and of various materials were in vogue. Though the finger ornaments are small in shape, they have greater importance. Like today, presenting rings was considered as a token of love by both the sexes. They were known by several names in different periods.
Waist Ornaments
Jaghanavibhūṣaṇa is the general name given to the ornaments worn on the hip or waist. It was used as an embellishment as well as a method to keep the lower garment in position. Though girdles were worn by both men and women, they were more popular among women. Various metals, jewels, precious stones and grass were employed in making girdles. Girdles were of either one or more than one string. Plenty of references are seen in the literature ranging from Vedas about girdles. They were known by different names, and were different in their features. Some of the types mentioned are—[...]
Leg Ornaments
Leg ornaments chiefly consist of two types -worn on ankles and on toes. The practice of wearing anklets and toe-rings was prevalent from Vedic period onwards. They were indicated by different words—[...]
Footnotes and references:
[1]:
°Äå³¾²¹²õÅ«³Ù°ù²¹, I.13-16
[2]:
XXI.12-13
[3]:
Chapter 50, vv.5-12